ABOUT OUR MOTOR VEHICLE INSPECTOR

Our Principal Motor Vehicle Inspector is Erich Kannen, Erich completed his Motor Mechanic Apprenticeship in Germany, some years before migrating to Australia in 1968.  Erich served his apprenticeships repairing both diesel (Cummins) powered heavy trucks and petrol powered cars .

Since coming to Australia in 1968 Erich has worked as a Mechanic and Service Manager on cars and trucks and a range of machinery.

Erich supervised and guided up to 20 Mechanics, repairing and servicing just about every make and model of car sold in Australia, particularly Toyota, Holden, Ford, Mitsubishi, Nissan, BMW and Volvo and lots of other makes.

As General Manager and Dealer Principal (that is the Managing Director) of several large metropolitan car dealerships (Alto Ford/ALto BMW Artarmon, Hawkesbury Valley Holden/NIssan, Pennant Hills Toyota/Pennant Hills Volvo and Sydney Mitsubishi) Erich supervised not only the buying and selling of many hundreds of used cars over the last 30 plus years, but also the mechanics repairing them for re-sale and 10 - 20 mechanics servicing them for their owners. 

The last 12 or so years, since establishing Car Solutions Motor Vehicle Consultants, Erich has sourced vehicles for his clients from franchised dealers, used car yards, auctions and private sellers. We don't think there is any one more knowledgeable in the industry, but if there is we like to meet him or her.

So, you can see you can have complete confidence in the Car Solutions Motor Vehicle Inspection Report. You deal with the man himself!

ABOUT THE VEHICLE INSPECTION REPORT

We could make the report long and complicated, perhaps 8 pages and 500 items.  But what is the point?  Most people want a concise report that allows them to make an informed judgment on the car inspected.  We have decided on a 4 page concise report, listing the 100 or so most important items. The Report extends to 8 Pages by the time explanations, disclaimers and other information is included.

Here is how we go about inspecting a car, this routine is followed without exception, providing a consistent inspection quality:

On arrival we introduce ourself and we ask for the Registration Certificate and the Service Book if available.  We do not rummage through individual receipts and other paperwork.

Part 1. We verify that we are inspecting the right vehicle, we check the Make, Model, Variant, Series and Body. We check the Registration Number on the Certificate against the Vehicle Plate and Certificate and we check the Expiry date of the Document against the Label on the car and check the type of registration (Pensioner, Private, Business). We do the same with the VIN. We confirm engine and transmission type, and check the Registered owners address versus the inspection address. We check the odometer reading and compare that with the "tell tale" signs of wear on Driver's seat (edge), carpet (Driver's heel), the wear on the Pedals, Gear Knob or Shifter, Door Handle, Steering Wheel and even against the tires and Brake discs.  Finally we carefully inspect both the Compliance Plate and Built Plate, especially the Rivets that hold them into place. Here we are likely to detect signs if someone has tempeed with them. We have now checked and verified at least 40 different items..

Part 2. We carefully inspect the Service Book (if available) and start by verifying that it is the Original issued with the vehicle, we verify the first listed owner versus the currently registered owner, we compare the Engine and VIN in the Book with the vehicle and examine the actual service record for odometer readings and dates, we check for service provider stamps to ensure the records were not added after the event. The reading of the Odometer is checked against the service records.  15 items are checked and verified.

Part 3 and 4.

We now visually inspect the vehicles exterior, we start by opening the Bonnet and by inspecting the Passenger side  front guard inside the where there are bolts that hold the guard onto the rest of the car (not visible with the Bonnet closed and on some cars obscured by a dust seal), we look for Spanner marks and for markings that show that the washer of the bolt was originally in a usually slightly different position.  It is almost impossible to replace it in exactly the same position. We move around the front of the vehicle and do the same at the Drivers side.  In the process we have observed the Bonnet fittings and the Grill. Guards and Bonnets are usually removed and replaced as a result of accident repairs. We move along the side of the vehicle and doing so inspect the tires, wheel rims and brake discs. We feel with our fingers the tread depth and if need be, use a gauge to measure the remaining tread, which should be over 1.5 mm.  2 mm or better is satisfactory for the purpose of the inspection. We open the Boot checking for Spanner marks on the hinges and we lift the carpet and cover that usually is the base of the boot above the spare tire. Now we can check the spare tire, tools and jack.  We also look for any signs that indicate past repairs. We move along the Passenger side of the vehicle to the front.  We walk once again around the vehicle inspecting the Glass, Mirrors and Lights, looking for cracks in lenses and chips in the Windscreen. We also check the rubber dust seals, especially for the Driver's door and boot, these are the first to get damaged. Part 3 comprises the checking of 67 different items and Part 4 another 27.

Part 5.

Now we open the Bonnet and check the items here.  First of all we make sure the vehicle is on a level surface. We check the fluid levels, Engine Oil, Coolant (Water), Transmission Oil (where possible), Power Steering Fluid and Brake Fluid.  Whilst doing that we can ascertain the quality.  Engine Oil when new is like Syrup, golden in color, black is only acceptable in a Diesel. Transmission Oil is usually Pink in Color and Coolant either emerald Green or Pink.  It should definitely not be Rusty!  The area around and inside the Air-filter and it's inlet should be clean. We use a search light to look in nooks and crevices to inspect hoses, pipes and check for oil leaks. Before starting the engine we check underneath the oil filler cap for any sludge built up (a sure sign of poor maintenance) and we definitely do not want to find any white sludge!  White sludge is caused by the mixture of water / coolant and oil.  Water usually enters the system because of a faulty Cylinder Head Gasket, a cracked Cylinder Head or worse still a cracked Engine Block. The latter being very expensive to repair.

We now check from ground level up, by lying on the ground we may see lower engine oil leaks, faulty steering or suspension components, holes in mufflers or tail pipes or under body accident repairs.  Again the search light provides the necessary illumination to see any leaks at the transmission, axles or the differential.  If all is clear we start up the Engine and check the idling speed.

The checks in part 5 comprise 37 various items.

Part 6.

Before setting off on a Test Drive we check the cabin, noticing the carpet and trim as we enter the vehicle.  We start with the Driver's seat, adjustment, Seat Belt, turning on the Air-conditioning, checking the various fan speeds and air outlets settings, we turn the Radio on or off as appropriate, checking stations, we lower and close all windows, check the operation of the wipers and washers and make sure the horn works.  We adjust the Mirrors and check the indicator and Hazard lights as well as the head lights and high beam.  The remote controls were checked as we opened the vehicle initially and checked under the bonnet and of course in the boot. The cabin checks total 63 after the remaining seats, seat belts etc are taken into account.

Part 7.

We now go on a test drive, unless it is not safe to do so, or we are prevented by the seller from doing so.  On the test drive or Road test we check the instruments, especially that the odometer works, we observe warning lights (ABS, Air-bags) etc. If any one is illuminated it is usually following accident repair, we notice electrical interference, Steering and Wheel Alignment, another sure way to tell whether a car has been recently repaired.  And, if they cannot get the Wheel Alignment right what does that say of the repair?  We check that the vehicle stops in a straight line, the Transmission changes smoothly, and we go through all the Gears several times if it is a manual car. The test drive will also tell us about the suspension and we listen for abnormal drive noises, that may come from tires, wheel bearings, drive shafts or timing gear. On conclusion of the Road test we check for engine fumes / smoke. 25 different items are checked on the road test.

MINIMUM TOTAL CHECKS AND TEST 275

We also report on previous accident damage or paint and panel repairs, usually only visible to the trained eye. Remember, only written-off vehicles, and then, only from a certain date onwards are listed on REVS.  Interstate written-off vehicles are not reported to REVS at all, so make sure you get a Car Solutions Vehicle Inspection done. 

Rest assured, if the car rates highly, than it is in all probability a good car, but if the car fails to rate highly, stay well clear!  We have over 30 years experience in assessing cars and we look, much to the dismay of some sellers well beyond the simple mechanics.  There is no better report then the Car Solutions Motor Vehicle Inspection Report!!!! 

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For further information contact www.carsolutions.com.au or write to info@carsolutions.com.au